up on the estancia

What’s happening in Uruguay, you ask?

Good timing. I’ve just come back.

Well, there is Montevideo and then there is the rest of the countryside. That’s correct – the countryside.

Twenty minutes outside of the capital and you are in the rolling, rambling, vast world of the South American “pampas” (from the local Indians meaning "plain"). These are fertile lowlands that run down into Argentina.

In an odd way you can’t get lost. The local tourist map shows all of Uruguay and the 8 national trunk routes fanning out from Montevideo. The Atlantic Ocean is to the east and the broad, muddy River Plate to the south. Thus, you only have to worry about the lay of the land from the northeast to the southwest. Stay on the trunk roads and you’re fine.

Somewhere in between (literally – on the small dirt track cross roads) are the huge estancias or ranches. Most are working ranches with thousands of sheep, horses and cows.

Some take tourists – we stopped at the remote and lovely San Pedro de Timote – three hours and a world away from Montevideo.

Horseback riding, long lunches, seclusion and …. peace and quiet.